Snow Chains

Posted on February 6th, 2009 in Being prepared by chris

Snow chains on car wheelA week of unusually heavy snow has given many drivers in the UK an experience that they have either not had before, or that they had forgotten about. My 50 mile drive home from work on Monday evening (2nd February ‘09) which usually takes around 1 hour 20 minutes took 3 hours 30 minutes. Worse, there were several modest slopes that my car struggled to climb at all. Once rubber tyres lose their grip on snow, or snow that has been compressed and polished by other vehicles into ice, it is very difficult to regain any traction.

For several years I have carried a pair of snow chains in the boot of the car as part of my emergency kit. I tried fitting them a couple of times when I bought them but that isn’t the same as using them on snow. I carry them not so that I can get to work on the snow but purely as a last-resort emergency measure if I need to get home and am stranded, or perhaps if I must ferry someone to hospital when the roads are otherwise impassable.

Today I have stayed at home, the roads this morning being covered with such deep snow that attempting to drive to work would have been foolhardy. It was a perfect opportunity to try fitting the snow chains and driving on them. When in the box snow chains are a confusing tangle of coloured links. Even when laid out carefully they can be hard to understand. The brief, multi-lingual instructions don’t help. Nevertheless I crouched by my front wheels in the snow this morning and fitted the chains knowing that I might one day be grateful for having undertaken this exercise. The first chain took about 10 minutes to fit but the second was completed in half that time.

I then took the car out onto the snow-covered roads. Grip is immeasurably better and one quickly gains confidence that the front wheels will retain grip when ascending and descending the slopes. The steering is still awkward as the front wheels follow ruts left my other vehicles and I found myself gripping the steering wheel tightly. The sensation is not a pleasant one and the car doesn’t travel as smoothly as if on a normal tarmac surface. Nevertheless as an emergency measure they are well worth having, the purchase price being an insurance premium to give peace of mind.

WaterBuoy: why risk it?

Posted on January 31st, 2009 in Being prepared by chris

Keyring floatsAs a fan of the BBC 2 television programme Dragons’ Den I well remember the episode in which the inventor James Halliburton demonstrated his WaterBuoy, a keyfob that, when dropped into water, inflates an orange balloon and turns on a flashing LED so that keys or small items (e.g. a mobile phone) dropped off a boat into the water will float to the surface for retrieval. It is a very clever idea. The keyfob is only about 7cm long x 3 cm wide x 1cm deep, little more than some car central-locking keyfobs. Every boat user recognises the risk of dropping their keys overboard. On the WaterBuoy website (www.water-buoy.com) Halliburton describes how, although he was offered financial backing by the ‘dragons’ on the TV programme, he subsequently declined because he decided that illuminated party balloons using the same technology could be even more profitable than the WaterBuoy.

Until the WaterBuoy came along boaters have usually attached a cork float to their keys. It’s a low-tech, rather bulky solution. Pictured here is a traditional cork float keyring (price £2.25) alongside the WaterBuoy (price £11.70). At first glance it’s a no-brainer. Why carry the bulky cork float around when you could have the compact WaterBuoy? The WaterBuoy has the added advantage of being visible at night which could be important if the keys are dropped into a moving current of water and won’t remain where they were dropped for long. Despite this, in my opinion using the WaterBuoy carries an unacceptable risk and I wouldn’t trust it to look after my keys or small valuables.

Keyring floats unpackagedA cork ball may be bulky but it can be tested. If, at any time, I wish to verify that my cork float still works, I can drop it into a filled bathtub, swimming pool, or other controlled environment and satisfy myself that it floats. I know that even with rough handling over several years the properties of my cork float that make it less dense than water won’t deteriorate. Therefore I can say with confidence that in ten or even twenty years’ time if I drop my keys attached to the cork float into the water, they will float. It requires no maintenance.

Contrast this with the WaterBuoy. Mine arrived a few days ago (January 2009) but the bottom of the box carries the tiny legend: ‘Production Date 01.2008 Made in China’. So my WaterBuoy is already a year old. Inside the box the printed warranty tells me they will replace any WaterBuoy with a manufacturing defect for a period of 6 months after purchase, and refund the purchase price for a period of 3 years from the production date shown on the packaging (my italics) if the device fails to work. So my 3 year warranty has already decayed to two years before I even obtained the WaterBuoy! Furthermore, if I drop my keys overboard and the WaterBuoy fails to operate, in the event that I manage to get my key-less craft back to the shore they will give me my money back. Big deal. How could I ever prove that the WaterBuoy didn’t work? The defective unit would be conveniently lying on the bottom of the ocean or river or canal, safe from lawyers, courts, and technical specialists. It would be just my word that it didn’t work. So this lack of apparent confidence in their own product by the manufacturer is my first objection.

Secondly, how long will it last? Who can say? We know it contains a battery, an LED, a folded balloon, a container of pressurised gas, and a means of releasing that gas and switching on the light when immersed in water. What is the reliable life-expectancy of those components? My warranty lasts for 2 years. Will I have to buy another WaterBuoy in two years’ time to have complete confidence that my keys will float? If I don’t replace it, will it still work in five years? Ten? I’ve no idea. And this brings me to my final objection, the fact that it cannot be tested.

Unlike the cork float I have no idea if my WaterBuoy will work when required. Probably nearly all WaterBuoys will do what they claim but what if one in a thousand, or one in ten thousand, or even fewer, is defective? I cannot find out if mine is the defective one. I could carry it around for years and only learn that it was defective as I watch my keys sink into the water, never to re-emerge. A brilliant invention, but why risk it?

Maplin Mains Power Monitor

Posted on January 1st, 2009 in Being prepared by chris

Plug-In Mains Power & Energy MonitorHere’s a neat tool that I’ve found very useful since I bought it around a year ago. It plugs into a mains wall socket, then you plug into its socket the mains appliance you wish to monitor. The LCD display shows the voltage, current (amps), power consumption (in either watts for active power or VA for apparent power), frequency (in hertz - and also the power factor) , and finally the power consumption over time (i.e. kWh).

Don’t be put off if some of these terms are meaningless to you. You don’t need to be a physicist to use it. The most relevant measure for most of us is the power consumption so plug it in, press the Watt button once, and the display will show the power consumption in watts (this is basically the amount of electricity you’re paying for). This meter can help to identify which appliances consume most of the power that makes your electricity bill so expensive. For example a lamp with a 100W light bulb should show a consumption of around 100 watts (give or take a watt or two). However a small table lamp we have with an energy-saving bulb consumes just 8W. By comparison, our tiny Christmas tree lights consume 30W yet give out less light.

Where this gets interesting is when measuring appliances that are often left switched on all the time. Our digital terrestrial TV decoder ’set top box’ consumes 9W when in use, but switch it to standby using the remote control and its consumption drops by a measly 2W to 7W. There is no on/off switch on this box so we have left it on standby round the clock for years, consuming a steady 7W! Okay so switching it off at the wall won’t save the planet or a fortune on our electricity bill, but installing a simple timeswitch that turns it off at night will pay for itself within a few months. If nothing else at least we can make an informed decision about whether to leave an appliance switched on or not.

I paid £9.99 for this monitor in a Maplin Electronics sale. As I type this they are offering it for £14.99. You can view a PDF of the instruction sheet by clicking here. Why have I classified this post under ‘being prepared’? Well having just a 2.6kVA generator, (see Generator) when the lights go out in a power cut (or preferably before!) it’s vital to know which appliances can be operated on generator power.

Freeplay Summit Radio

Posted on November 9th, 2008 in Being prepared by chris

Freeplay Summit radioA vital piece of emergency kit is a portable radio receiver. Arguably any decent radio is fine in an emergency providing you have the batteries to power it but I was attracted to the Freeplay wind-up radio because it offers alternative energy sources. It can run from the supplied mains adapter and has an internal 3.6v Ni-Mh battery with a capacity of 1,300 mAh which can be recharged from the mains. When mains electrical power is available the battery recharges from fully discharged in 24 hours, and the fully charged battery provides about 20 hours of listening. When mains power isn’t available there is a solar panel on the top rated at 4.2v and 34mA which recharges the battery (although I gather leaving it exposed to average British sunlight on a windowsill only gives enough power for 30 minutes of listening per day).

The real reason for buying this radio though is its wind-up capability. It has a handle on the back that flips out and can be wound by hand (either clockwise or anticlockwise so it’s suitable for left and right handed people) to recharge the battery. There’s a green LED which indicates the optimum winding speed for recharging. It is stiff and a few minutes of winding do leave one’s wrists and arms feeling tired but the manufacturers claim that 30 seconds of winding provides 30 minutes of listening. I can’t complain at that. The top and bottom of the case have a rubber insert to ensure you have a good grip while winding.

The back of my Freeplay Summit radioIn use the control buttons are poorly laid out. Since they’re all the same size one has to read the legend beside them. The radio offers four wavebands (FM, LW, MW, and SW). For shortwave reception the radio comes with a 7 metre reel of aerial cable that clips onto the telescopic antenna. The radio does offer 30 preset stations (10 FM, 10 MW, 5 LW and 5 SW) as well as a clock, alarm and snooze capability. There is a press-button backlight for the LCD time/frequency display. Apparently the radio stops working while there is still enough power remaining in the battery to sustain the clock and memory presets for a while. The radio is fairly small, being 90mm high, 171mm wide, and 80mm deep, but at 700g in weight it’s not the lightest for backpackers, and the telescopic antenna is a weedy 29cm long. Nevertheless the sound quality from the 66mm speaker is superb and better than any other small radio I’ve owned. Its sound can comfortably fill a room in a family house so that several people can listen.

I keep mine permanently connected to the mains adapter, which itself is plugged into a mains timer that comes on for 15 minutes every day, ensuring that the battery is kept topped up and always ready for use. The overall solid feel of this receiver gives one confidence, and given the excellent mono sound quality from the little speaker I recommend this unit for everyday use as well as for emergencies.

Hurricane lamps

Posted on December 29th, 2006 in Being prepared by chris

An old hurricane lampFollowing on from my posts last week about candles, Tilley lamps, and Camping Gaz lanterns, there is one emergency light source that I omitted: Hurricane lamps.  These lanterns are simple in design which means there’s little to go wrong, and they burn a flame from a cloth wick that dips into a reservoir of paraffin.  A lantern with a full tank will burn continuously for about 11 hours.

These lamps can be purchased new from many places, including for example hurricanelamps.co.uk (although I have never purchased from this website).  As I write this they are offering new lamps in a variety of colours for £9.75 each plus £3.75 postage and packing.  As is so often the case one can buy cheaper lamps, both new and used, on eBay.  I bought the ‘Gremlin’ lamp pictured here on eBay for £5.69 plus £3 p&p.

The light from a hurricane lamp is much dimmer than a Tilley lamp but considerably brighter than a single candle.  Unlike a candle the hurricane lamp can be carried around without an concern about the draught blowing out the flame.  Like Tilley lamps a hurricane lamp can burn either paraffin or domestic heating oil (but never, ever, petrol).

 I now need to find a source of replacement wicks, the only consumable a hurricane lamp needs apart from paraffin.  The Gremlin lamp pictured has a flat cloth wick half an inch wide.  This should last for many months of continuous use but my compulsion to have a stock of all consumables for my emergency lighting means that I shall buy at least one spare wick, and probably two.  Two suppliers of wicks I have found are the eBay shop of PARAFINALIA2000 who sells a variety of wick by the yard, and an interesting online hardware store called Partridges which sells wick by the metre.  I haven’t purchased from either of these yet.

The instructions supplied with one make of new hurricane lamp are as follows:

User Instructions

1. Fuel

Recommended fuel for this lantern: Common lamp oil (clear or coloured), citronella oil and paraffin.

2. Filling the Lantern

Do not fill the lantern font more than ½ full, unless maximum burning time is required. Over filling the lantern may cause the fuel to spill out of the burner socket onto the inner air chamber plate and leak out the side tube joint, thus creating the impression that the lantern is leaking and makes a mess!

3. Lighting the Lantern

The wick should be adjusted so that it is no more than 1/16th of an inch above the flame plate. As the lantern warms to normal operating temperature, the flame will increase in size. Five minutes after lighting, the flame may be adjusted to provide maximum illumination. If the wick is set too high, smoking will occur which means a sooted globe and possible globe breakage!

4. Trimming the Wick

With steady use, the wicks will need trimming occasionally. Trim off the charred tip with sharp scissors so that the top of the wick is flat and square, making right angles at the corners.

5. Caution
Keep away from children — this is not a toy.
Glass globe and chimney cap will become hot during use. This lantern should not be left unattended when lit.

Burning wood

Posted on December 27th, 2006 in Being prepared by chris

Firewood stacked outside our back doorHaving always lived in the country I have grown up with log fires and wood-burning stoves.  Heating a house, or even a single room, with wood is hard work. If you have some woodland the trees must be felled and the firewood must be cut, split, carted, stored, and seasoned.  Alternatively you can buy the firewood from a supplier, and arrange delivery, then move the wood from wherever the supplier’s truck tips it to the place where you will store it.  Then at least once a week, but probably more frequently, the wood must be brought into the house for burning, and the ash removed.  If this all sounds like hard work that’s because it is.  However there are also several rewards: a wood fire looks attractive, the smell of woodsmoke is delightful, unlike fossil fuel the production of firewood is sustainable, and once you have the logs you are not vulnerable to any interruption in your winter heating fuel supply.  A log fire brings a room to life and makes it more welcoming.

In this rambling house we have three wood-burning stoves.  During the winter we only use the one in our family room on a daily basis.  The other two are lit at weekends and holidays, and also when the weather is particularly cold.  Over the past few days of the Christmas holiday I have brought in large quantities of firewood daily to feed our three fires and this has caused me to dwell on our firewood arrangements.  We purchase seasoned logs cut to the size we specify from a local woodyard.  They sell by the metric tonne and they even supply a printed ticket from their weighbridge as ‘proof’ that we are receiving the quantity ordered.  We try to order our logs in mid or late summer, obtaining a sufficient quantity to see us comfortably through the winter.  Last July we had 2 tonnes of standard 12-inch logs and 1 tonne of 18″ logs costing £208.60 in total.  They are tipped near the house and then I laboriously move them by wheelbarrow and stack them outside the back door, covering the top loosely with a plastic tarpaulin (green logs contain up to 50% water and even dry logs seasoned outdoors may contain 20% moisture so it is vital that they are kept well-ventilated in order for them to remain dry).  The wood is mainly beech, with some birch, oak, and a little ash.  As a general rule the denser the wood, the more heat you will get from it, and this usually means that firewood from slow-growing trees is best.

Our main woodburner that we use every day from October to AprilOn dry autumn and winter days we send the children out into the woods to collect twigs for kindling which we store in the greenhouse and in the cupboard under the stairs.  Even if damp when collected they quickly dry out.  You can never have enough kindling to last through the winter and I sometimes supplement the twigs with pieces scrap timber or old pallets which I cut to size and then split with a little hand-axe.

When being stored outside the house logs often become damp from the rain.  However if they have been well seasoned the damp does not penetrate far and the logs will still burn well on a fire that is already lit.  It is only starting a fire that requires really dry wood.  In theory a fire can be easily lit with a few sheets of screwed-up newspaper, a few dry twigs, and then some dry, ideally split, logs on top.  However often we cheat by using a firelighter block which makes the job really easy.

In 1854 Henry David Thoreau, in his book Walden, wrote that ‘Every man looks at his wood-pile with a kind of affection’.  I think this is as true today as it was then.  When our supply of logs is stacked outside the house in the autumn I know that whatever misfortune befalls us during the winter we should at least stay warm.  I would urge anyone who is able to burn wood in their home to keep at least a small supply of logs in case the central heating fails.

Beechwood fires are bright and clear
If the logs are kept a year.
Chestnut only good they say,
If for long ’tis laid away.
But ash new or ash old
Is fit for queen with crown of gold.

Birch and fir logs burn too fast,
Blaze up bright and do not last.
It is by the Irish said
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread.
Elm wood burns like churchyard mould,
E’en the very flames are cold.
But ash green or ash brown
Is fit for queen with golden crown.

Poplar gives a bitter smoke,
Fills your eyes and makes you choke.
Apple wood will scent your room,
With an incense like perfume.
Oak and maple, if dry and old,
Keep away the winter’s cold.
But ash wood wet or ash wood dry,
A King shall warm his slippers by.

FEMA

Posted on December 23rd, 2006 in Being prepared by chris

Anyone interested in preparing themselves and their family for unexpected hardship or emergency would be well advised to visit the website of FEMA, the United States Federal Emergency Management Agency (http://www.fema.gov).  Among the pages of this fascinating website is advice on all kinds of emergencies, along with manuals on emergency planning and preparation that can be downloaded in PDF format.

Motoring breakdown

Posted on December 21st, 2006 in Being prepared by chris

Although we try to keep our cars well-maintained there is still always the risk that we’ll be stranded somewhere inconvenient by a mechanical breakdown or accident.  For years we have paid annually for membership of a motoring breakdown organisation such as the AA or RAC.  The membership card gives great peace of mind, but it’s expensive and most years we don’t make a single call.

While I was examining ways to reduce our overheads I discovered that a couple of these organisations (and possibly more) will come out to help a stranded motorist even if you don’t belong to their organisation.  The catch is that you must join on the spot and I think also pay a £50 surcharge.  This seems like a fair deal to me.  I suspect this will work out cheaper in the long run.  Therefore in the glovebox of both our cars is a piece of paper with the following information:

AA 24 hour vehicle breakdown service: phone 0800 887 766
RAC: phone 08000 280964 and quote reference WJ0003

We haven’t tested how well this will work, and we may find that a non-member is made to wait so long at the roadside that we’ll prefer to pay the annual premium, but I think it’s worth a try.

Car emergency kit

Posted on December 20th, 2006 in Being prepared by chris

As a freelance software developer I drive about 2,000 miles a month in my car on business.  Although it is fairly unlikely, one of my concerns is that I should become stranded in my car owing to a mechanical breakdown, accident, or poor weather.  Severe weather in southern England is rare, but in the winter of 2004/05 I experienced a fifty mile journey home that started with just a few snowflakes falling but quickly developed into a blizzard.  After I had travelled about 25 miles around 3 inches of snow had settled and the untreated roads had become skating rinks on which I witnessed several accidents.  As darkness fell I started to wonder if I would be able to get home.  On this occasion I did arrive home safely, but I resolved to ensure that I was better prepared next time.  

Over the months I have therefore accumulated various items of emergency and survival kit in my car, and recently I realised that I didn’t even know exactly what I did have stowed in the car.  So today I performed an inventory and I list it here mainly so that I can print out a copy to keep in the car for emergencies.  Some of the items are laughable because they are more suited to living off the land than to surviving a commuting mishap.  For example I cannot envisage that I shall ever need a rabbit snare  when returning from the office!  Nevertheless the snare came as part of a survival kit and I shall probably keep it; every item of survival equipment might prove useful for a job other than the one it was originally intended for, so for example the snare might end up holding up a broken exhaust silencer.

The complete inventory of my car’s contents goes as follows (I have omitted the standard manufacturer’s equipment such as scissor jack, wheel brace, and toolkit).

Driver’s door pocket

  • Sunglasses
  • Leather notepad
  • Retractable ballpoint pen
  • Pencil

Driver’s seat pocket

  • Notebook
  • Pencil
  • 4 disposable plastic gloves
  • 2 paper towels

Passenger’s seat pocket

  • 2 folded paper handwipes 

Centre console

  • Tesco clubcard (supermarket loyalty card)
  • Polo mints
  • Bluetooth phone earpiece
  • Toothpick
  • Token for the car-park barrier at the Goddard Arms Hotel in Swindon (?)
  • Cassette player adapter and 12v charger for my MP3 player
  • Universal phone charger with 12v, 240v, and USB plugs
  • Nokia charger adapter for bluetooth earpiece
  • Money bag with coins for parking machines
  • McDonald’s rubbish bag
  • 3 Volvo panel bulbs
  • A screw-top plastic jar containing:
    • one 8″ nylon cable tie
    • three 5″ nylon cable ties
    • four 3″ nylon cable ties
    • three 2″ nylon cable ties
    • two safety pins (1 large, 1 small)
    • Pair black shoe laces
    • Sealed sample phial of WD40 oil
    • Folding scissors
    • Emergency sewing kit (five colours of cotton, needle, 2 buttons, 5 safety pins)
    • Sealed moist wipe
    • Box of matches
    • Length of parcel string
    • 8 disposable plastic gloves
    • Emergency Velcro hose seal tape
    • Box with folding toothbrush and toothpaste
    • Fuzzy Brush chewable toothbrush
    • Emery board
    • Victorinox Swiss Army knife
    • Unopened packet of Wet Ones wipes
    • Unopened pocket pack of Kleenex tissues

Glovebox

  • 12v cigarette lighter rechargeable LED torch
  • LED keyring torch
  • Canister of Halfords lock de-icer
  • Tyre tread depth gauge
  • Tyre pressure gauge
  • Digital stopwatch with clock
  • Car handbook, service record, dealer list, etc.
  • Two compact road atlases
  • Breakdown service phone numbers
  • Windscreen scraper / squeegee
  • 12v water heater
  • Aerosol canister of windscreen de-icer
  • A copy of this inventory!

Front passenger’s seat back

  • UK Road atlas
  • Sainsbury’s carrier bag (child’s sick bag)

Driver’s seat back

  • Bristol & Bath street atlas
  • Two Sainsbury’s carrier bags

Rear Shelf

  • Golf umbrella

Boot

  • 10 litre plastic can of diesel
  • Pair of Dunlop wellington boots
  • Snow chains
  • Auto Glym car-care holdall
  • Aladdin insulated mug with lid
  • Two Ainsley Harriott cup soups (BBE Apr 2010)
  • Two Ainsley Harriott instant pasta pots (BBE Nov 2009)
  • Holdall containing:
    • Plastic lightstick
    • Roll of black insulation tape 19mm x 33m
    • Lifesystems mountain thermal bag 2.2m x 1m
    • Orvis pocket saw
    • Plastic SOS whistle on paracord neck loop
    • Pair of thick walking socks
    • Waterproof trousers
    • Unopened pack of Boots moist toilet tissues
    • Thick brown woollen jumper
    • Waterproof cagoul
    • One 75cl bottle of Evian Mineral Water (BB 26/01/2009)
    • Two 500ml cans of Old Speckled Hen beer (BBE July 2010)
    • Three 200ml cartons of Sainsbury’s pure orange juice (BBE February 2010)
    • One 240g John West Tuna Mediterranean light lunch (BBE December 2010)
    • One 500g bag Sainsbury’s ready to eat dried apricots (BBE May 2010)
    • Four 200g bags of Sainsbury’s jumbo salted peanuts (BB 13/02/2010)
    • One 200g pack of Sainsbury’s all butter shortbread finger biscuits (BB 13/03/2010)
    • Five Mars bars (BB 25/04/2010)
    • Survival bag 1:
      • Two plastic bags for carrying water
      • Fishing kit (line, hooks on nylon, lead wire)
      • Survival aide memoire
      • Tin opener
      • Lifeboat matches and striker (approx. 18)
      • 3 large safety pins
      • 2 large needles
      • Plastic SOS whistle
      • 4″ hacksaw blade
      • Eight combined salt and dextrose tablets
      • Roll of thin nylon cord
      • Flint with metal striker
      • Flexible commando saw
      • Condom (for carrying water)
      • Boots lip salve
      • Potassium permanganate powder (for starting a fire and purifying water)
      • Candle
      • Pencil
      • Two single-sided razor blades
      • Rabbit snare
      • Reel of white cotton
      • Wound dressing and two plasters
      • Cotton wool (tinder for fires)
      • Brass button compass
    • Survival bag 2:
      • Flint and Magnesium fire-starting tool
      • 7ft x 3 ft 120 gauge polythene survival bag
      • Sealed canister of windproof matches
      • 25m parachute cord
      • Victorinox ‘Champion’ Swiss Army knife
    • Toiletries bag:
      • Airport ‘Fresh n Go’ box containing razor, shaving cream, after-shave, shampoo/shower gel, comb, toothbrush, toothpaste, shoeshine, and nail file
      • Toothbrush and toothpaste
      • Shaving brush and shaving soap
      • Bic disposable razor
      • Bar of soap
      • Comb
  • In left compartment:
    • J-cloth
    • Duster
    • Rubber Ever Ready torch (two D cells)
    • LED head torch with 1, 7, or 19 LEDs (three AAA cells)
    • Thick plastic gloves
  • In right compartment:
    • Halfords first aid kit
    • Folding umbrella
  • Underneath boot floor:
    • Tow rope
    • 12v torch / air compressor
    • New junior hacksaw
    • Warning triangle
    • Anti-theft steering wheel lock
    • Folding shovel
    • 2 litre bottle Sainsbury’s Caledonian Still mineral water (BBE Jul 2006)
    • Carrier bag of assorted spare bulbs
    • Haynes manual in jiffy bag
    • Heavy duty jump leads (under spare wheel)
    • Extra-long (ex-Saab) jack winding handle

In the event of snow being forecast I would supplement this with warm gloves and a warm coat.  What have I forgotten?

Camping Gaz

Posted on December 19th, 2006 in Being prepared by chris

Camping Gaz lanternAn alternative to using a Tilley storm lamp for emergency lighting (see yesterday’s post) is to use a ‘Lumogaz’ Camping Gaz 206L lantern.  Like the Tilley this lamp uses a mantle and produces a bright white light that can fill a small room (the lamp is rated at between 10 and 80 watts depending on how much you open the gas valve).  Also like the Tilley the Camping Gaz lamp can be kept ready to be used in an emergency, but it is considerably cheaper than a Tilley lamp costing about £16.  It is quicker to get going because it just needs a lighted match to be held next to the mantle while the gas is turned on. 

Camping Gaz cookerThese lamps use the widely-available disposable C206 pierceable canisters that can be quickly replaced, but they cannot be removed until they are empty.  The canisters contain 190g of gas, a mixture of 80% butane and 20% propane.  The canisters can be safely stored for years and the manufacturers claim they will not explode until they reach a temperature of 87 degrees centigrade, considerably higher than would be reached in a car or the roofspace of a house, even on the hottest summer’s day.  These lamps do cost more than a paraffin lamp to run.  I would suggest that these are not a suitable emergency light unless you keep several spare gas canisters, and a spare mantel, in stock.  The canisters usually cost about £1.50 each, but when I stocked up in September 2006 Millets were doing a ‘3 for the price of 2′ offer which reduced the price to £1 each.

One benefit of the C206 Camping Gaz canisters is that they also fit into a single burner cooking stove which costs around £14 and may be useful for emergency use if you normally depend upon an electric cooker.

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